Descriptive essay surfing
My obsessions usually fuel my work as a writer. But whenever I attempted to write about surfing, my prose was saturated with a fatuousness that could not be scrubbed away. I had never paddled out in perfect Rincon; I could not tell you about the eerie, green elation one finds deep in the barrel because I have never been there. I sought out other accounts of surfing.
They were either sunbaked spiritual pornography or they were dispatches from kooks — novice surfers — who were writing about the sport in the way they might have written about eating ahi poke for the first time in a Hawaiian hotel. The problem is at least as old as Mark Twain, who also traveled to Hawaii.
Six Short Essays on Surfing
His account, written for the Sacramento Union, might have been the first Western account of a wipeout. The board struck the shore in three-quarters of a second, without any cargo, and I struck the bottom about the same time, with a couple of barrels of water in me. I concluded that writing about surfing was impossible because surfing elicited happiness, and it is impossible to write about happiness. The author, William Finnegan, had written about some of the legends of the San Francisco surf scene with an odd mix of exhaustion and excitement that seemed to perfectly capture the daily grind of surfing.
He did not talk about the gifts the ocean gives to all of us. He was the first person I had come across who could write about surfing without schmaltz or weighty metaphors. Surfing, for Peewee, was nothing more than surfing. I thought of the story often in San Francisco. On clean, January days, surfing, even badly, was enough to give me a purpose in life.
I did not really believe surfing was nothing more than surfing, but I hoped I might one day get good enough at it to drop all its sentimental trappings. We learn that Finnegan and a friend were among the first Americans to surf Tavarua, a small island off the coast of Fiji whose peeling waves are among the most coveted in the world; we learn he charged Ocean Beach in San Francisco before it got overrun by kooks like me, that he surfed Jeffreys Bay in South Africa while teaching at an all-black school during apartheid.
Consider his description of Kirra, one of the dozens of famous waves Finnegan has surfed:. But Stockton was a short, freaky wave — a one-trick pony. You ate it. Four minutes? Tell the truth about your experience and what you'd like to achieve.
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More time surfing waves and less time drinking sea water. This is terrible, terrible advice. It was hardly better than a t-shirt, but it was great for my early surfing ability. Reef breaks. Scary stuff for a beginner surfer. Thoughts of cuts, infections, tropical diseases. But not all reefs are created equal.
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Mind Surfer tips : only dreamed of surfing. Learner tips : tried once or twice. Beginner tips : standing up and balancing. Intermediate tips : going across the face, paddling out. New to Over The Dune? Over The Dune is a surfing blog about the in-between. The stuff nobody talks about when you're learning to surf.
Woolacombe beach… the proving ground. Summertime sunsets in Woolacombe never disappoint…. Tags: pop up , Woolacombe.
Lessons Learned You breach. See more lessons learned. Leave a Reply Click here to cancel reply. What does backside mean? The descriptive essay is a genre of essay that asks the student to describe something—object, person, place, experience, emotion, situation, etc. What is more, this genre allows for a great deal of artistic freedom the goal of which is to paint an image that is vivid and moving in the mind of the reader.
How-to Strengthening Descriptive Writing – ADF Protection
One might benefit from keeping in mind this simple maxim: If the reader is unable to clearly form an impression of the thing that you are describing, try, try again! If your instructor asks you to describe your favorite food, make sure that you jot down some ideas before you begin describing it. For instance, if you choose pizza, you might start by writing down a few words: sauce, cheese, crust, pepperoni, sausage, spices, hot, melted, etc.
Once you have written down some words, you can begin by compiling descriptive lists for each one. This means that words are chosen carefully, particularly for their relevancy in relation to that which you are intending to describe. Why use horse when you can choose stallion?